Click your heels three times and repeat after us: There’s no place like Bali. Now, we could easily rattle off some of the island’s most famous attractions – the surf, the spas, the sunsets – but it is something more ethereal; a certain je ne sais quoi that makes Bali such a special place.
There are few things that capture Bali’s unique magic quite like Nyepi. This singular celebration shows how firmly the Island of the Gods is still rooted in its ancient traditions. As the world spins at a dizzying speed, Bali dares to move at its own pace.
Nyepi – The Need-to-Know Basics
Nyepi, or the Day of Silence, is a unique holiday that’s only celebrated in Bali. Once a year, for 24 hours, the island shuts down as everyone must stay indoors and keep noise and lights to a minimum. It’s kind of like Earth Hour, but one that lasts for a full 24 hours and that’s been observed for centuries – Hinduism was first introduced to Indonesia in the first century CE.
In 2024, Nyepi falls on March 11. The exact date varies from year to year, as it is based on the Balinese Saka Calendar – life in Bali literally moves on island time. The Saka Calendar is based on the phases of the moon, with Nyepi marking the start of the Saka Year. In other words, Nyepi is the Balinese New Year. You can read more about the rules and traditions related to Nyepi here.
The Scene in Bali on Nyepi Day
Balinese Hinduism is strongly focused on finding a balance between good and evil. Nyepi is a beautiful reflection of this larger belief system. The night before Nyepi, fearsome ogoh-ogoh sculptures are paraded on the streets of Bali, their formidable forms and the accompanying clangs of the gamelan designed to attract evil spirits. Once those spirits fly over Bali on Nyepi Day, they will find the island seemingly deserted and continue their journey without disturbing the island. After Nyepi, Bali is believed to be safe and sound and free of evil spirits for another year.
While these roaming spirits may sound ethereal, the celebration is far from metaphoric: Nyepi literally brings the island to a standstill. Usually, Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport welcomes around 18,000 passengers a day. On Nyepi, this number drops down to zero: Ngurah Rai is believed to be the only airport in the world that shuts down for 24 hours every year. There is something very refreshing about our busy modern lives bending in the face of these ancient traditions. We can all probably agree that the world could slow down every now and then.
Moving beyond the airport, Bali is eerily quiet on Nyepi. Schools, restaurants and shops are all closed, and the usually bustling beaches are deserted. Streets that are normally dominated by cars, buses and motorbikes are now empty. Of course, the only ones to witness this stark change of pace are the pecalang – Bali’s local security officers. Dressed in black, they patrol the island and escort anyone venturing outside back to their accommodation.
Life in Bali Still Bends to Traditions
The very concept of Nyepi is unique to Bali – it is a celebration unlike any other. What makes it all the more powerful is that the whole island truly abides by this ancient custom. Regardless of your nationality or social stature, no one is exempt from observing Nyepi. Almost 90% of locals follow the Hindu faith, but even if you don’t, Nyepi will still impact your life. You will either observe the Day of Silence in Bali or escape to another island to enjoy “freedom” – the Gili Islands are always a popular option among expats.
The impact of Nyepi is particularly pronounced in areas like Seminyak or Canggu where life generally moves at a hectic pace. On the Day of Silence, even the busiest beach clubs, trendiest cafes and coolest tattoo shops are closed.
The Power of Traditions
While it’s never as pronounced as it is on Nyepi, Balinese traditions seep into everyday life on the island. Throughout the year, colourful ceremonies shut down and reroute traffic, even in the busiest neighbourhoods. As locals in their finest formals fill the street and the sound of gamelan and the smell of incense float through the air, commuters on their motorbikes and tourists in their taxis will simply have to wait. In Bali, traditions always take precedence.
Throughout Bali, delicate offerings crafted from palm leaves and flowers are laid out daily. Known as canang sari, these offerings are a sign of gratitude to the creator of all life. These fragile offerings are carefully placed even in the middle of the busiest intersections and on the polished floors of glistening shopping malls. It is a beautiful example of how the Balinese way of life continues to not only adapt but actually thrive in our ever-changing world.
In the End, it’s All About the People
There are many reasons visitors love Bali. For some, it’s all about the beaches and the Bintangs while others are drawn to the temples and the traditions. What all travellers seem to agree on is that the very best thing about Bali are its people. With Nyepi too, it is again the people that make this unique celebration so special.
In the weeks leading up to Nyepi, local village communities or banjars build their mighty ogoh-ogoh sculptures from scratch. This process is proudly shared on social media – another example of how Balinese traditions are adapting to modern times. Gamelan orchestras practice for the procession and communities create impressive offerings. It is very much a group effort – a community working towards a common goal.
This amazing sense of community is one of the most impressive things about Bali. It’s something you’ll encounter whether you’re staying in a remote mountain village or in the pulsing heart of Canggu. That same sense of community also makes Bali one of the safest places to visit. Local banjars and their pecalang (the same men who patrol the island during Nyepi) look after their own community. In Bali, people’s lives are still woven together. Violent crime is exceedingly rare, and many Western expats describe feeling safer in Bali than they do in their home city.
The More Things Change…
While Nyepi has its roots deep in the past, that doesn’t mean that things haven’t changed. Long-time expats will tell you of Nyepis gone by when you’d strictly stay indoors all day, with no air-conditioning and nothing but a small flashlight or a single candle to light up the room. Nowadays, things are not quite as strict as all that and as a visitor, you can go about your day pretty normally. The main hurdle – if you can even call it that – is that those beautiful Balinese gardens will not be lit after nightfall, and you’ll need to draw the curtains to prevent any light from escaping your room. Other than that, Nyepi basically looks like a peaceful day spent in your villa or hotel, capped off with a brilliantly starlit sky.
Looking at the bigger picture, some parts of Bali have definitely changed more than others. Canggu is a prime example of rapid and rampant change – if you visited the area 10 years ago, chances are you’d no longer recognise it. But when you move just slightly outside the busy bubble of southern Bali, you’ll encounter rice paddies still governed by age-old subak systems and villages where life still revolves around ancient temple ceremonies. In many ways, life in these parts has remained largely unchanged for generations.
For anyone who’s only ever stayed in Kuta, Seminyak or Canggu, we highly recommend venturing further afield on your next trip. Exploring different parts of the island will give you a whole new perspective on Bali – and a whole new love for the island. From the slopes of sacred mountains to remote beachfront oases and hidden jungle retreats, there are so many amazing places to stay in Bali that will truly immerse you in the island’s unique beauty.
All of this to say: both on Nyepi and throughout the year, the “real” Bali is still alive and well – you just have to keep your heart and your senses open.
