The village of Pererenan is the newest player in the ongoing evolution of Bali’s southwestern coastline. Back in the day, Kuta was the place to be. When that area got a little too wild and crowded, discerning travellers moved up the coast to Legian and then Seminyak which for many years was considered the place to be in Bali. Little by little, the crowds started to trickle up the coast to Berawa and Canggu. First it was surfers and expats – and then everyone else. If you haven’t been to Canggu in a few years, chances are you would no longer recognise the place.
Gone are the days when Canggu was a relaxed mish mash of surf breaks, rice fields and local warungs, with a few beach bars thrown in between. Today, the area is filled with chic boutiques and trendy cafes, with too many international beach clubs to keep track of: Finns, Como, La Brisa, Café del Mar… did we miss one? As the crowds have descended, the area’s traffic has become the stuff of legends.
And this brings us to Pererenan. Simply put: while everyone else is still in Canggu, those in the know are already in Pererenan.
This Sleepy Surfer Village is About to be Huge
Before we get any further, let’s get the lay of the land. Pererenan is the next village over from Canggu, stretching from the beach up towards the Canggu-Tanah Lot throughway. The line between Canggu and Pererenan is blurry: take a short stroll up Canggu’s famous black sand beach and before you know it, you’ll find yourself in Pererenan. If you’re on a motorbike, you can also take a quick little shortcut through the rice fields. This will bring you from Canggu’s buzzy Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong to Pererenan in five minutes flat.
Now, let’s get down to it: what is the scene in Pererenan? While the energy in Canggu is high and vibrant, in Pererenan, the vibe is much more relaxed. But mark our words: things are about to heat up. You can already feel a change taking a place in Pererenan.
Bye Bye Nasi Goreng, Hello Global Gourmet
First, let’s consider the dining options. Not too long ago, the only meal on offer was a humble nasi goreng. These days, Pererenan’s main street is dotted with chic cafes and elegant restaurants offering practically every cuisine under the sun, from Mediterranean to Japanese and from Italian to Thai. Bakeries, spas, gelato shops… it’s all here! There’s not even a need to head over to Canggu when you feel like having a late-night tipple – simply head over to Shady Fox, the trendy local speakeasy.
A definite sign of the area’s transformation is the migration taking place from previous hotspots. In recent times, several of Bali’s most popular cafes have opened outposts in Pererenan. No need to zoom over to Canggu or Umalas for a croissant – Monsieur Spoon now has an outlet in Perenanan. Ditto for brunch, as Legian favourite Brunch Club Bali now also has a presence in this up-and-coming hood. BAKED has a very popular cafe on Jalan Raya Semat (close to the infamous Canggu shortcut) and yes, you guessed it, one in Pererenan too.
Five-Star Villas Hidden Amid Rice Fields
Even before the area’s current upward swing, Pererenan was a villa lover’s paradise. It’s interesting to see how villas that were once described as serene and secluded are now, slowly but surely, finding themselves on the doorstep of all the action.
Staying in Pererenan is a revelation for anyone who’s grown accustomed to the walled-in villas of Seminyak. Here, villas like Bella Bambu offer sweeping views of the surrounding rice fields that’ll make you feel like a million miles from it all – though in reality, your next barista brewed espresso and artisanal scoop of gelato are just minutes away. Talk about having the best of both worlds.
It’s hardly a coincidence that the neighbourhood is also inspiring some of the most artistic-designed villas on the island. The River House, which seems poised for its Architectural Digest feature, is a prime example. Villa Inti is exquisitely eclectic in its design, featuring some of the most beautiful textiles you’ll find anywhere.
A particularly stunning offering is Villa Breeze, which straddles the line between Canggu and Pererenan. With it’s 5 bedrooms, sleek architecture, tropical garden and curved infinity pool overlooking rice fields, this villa is a family-favourite.
Also check out magnificent Villa Sungai Tinggi – a beachfront villa with a lagoon pool separating the four bedroom villa from the ocean. Stunning.
A Feel of Bali Back in the Day
While the world might be catching on, for now, Pererenan still maintains its local charm and a gentler pace of life. Sure, there are the new boutiques and the trendy restaurants, but in between, there are the local warungs, the Hindu temples and the rice fields that give the area its unique spirit and character. This is a village where surfers still walk down the street barefoot, sharing the road with horses out for a stroll from the local staples. In Pererenan, no one is in a hurry.
And this brings us to the beach, a 500-metre-long stretch of volcanic black sand which bookends the main street. Instead of swanky beach clubs, Pererenan Beach is still lined with local vendors selling grilled corn and cold drinks. In the shadow of the mighty Gajah Mina statue, surfers head for the line-up while local kids play in the shallows.
In Bali, things change fast. But for now, Pererenan is still a place where you can relive all the things that made you fall in love with Bali in the first place.
